1995 Château Pavie-Decesse

I may have badly misled readers when I last rated this wine (giving it an (86-88) range of score). Now that it has been bottled, the 1995 Pavie-Decesse is extraordinarily austere, with elevated tannin levels, some sweet black currant, cranberry, and cherry fruit, but a hollow mid-palate, and a dry, sharp finish with noticeable astringent tannin. I liked this wine much better from three separate cask tastings, but two tastings from bottle have made me question my earlier reviews. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2010. This well-situated estate on the limestone hillsides of St.-Emilion was recently sold to Gerard Perse, which is great news. The 1997 I tasted in November is the most impressive Pavie-Decesse produced in a long, long time. The 1995 and 1996 vintages were made under the old administration and are far more angular, lean, and austere than those that will emerge under the new regime.