2014 Maison Joseph Drouhin Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
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Tasting notes
Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2014 tasting, Drouhin's 2014 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is a wine that I might have underestimated from barrel, or perhaps it has just blossomed in bottle. It has a conservative bouquet that needs coaxing from the glass: red cherries, strawberry, scorched earth and just a touch of vanilla from the residual new oak waiting to be subsumed. The palate is medium-bodied with finely tuned tannin and bright red fruit, tensile and poised with a taut, quite linear finish that has class and refinement. This was one of the best in the flight of Clos de Vougeot, and I scored this even higher than Etienne Grivot's. Tasted September 2017.
Critic scores
Neal Martin
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
(Drouhin works with a parcel near the little tower in front of the chateau and another in the southeast section of the cru but in 2014 only kept the tower portion and sold off the rest): Medium bright red. Complex nose melds plum, red cherry, licorice, pepper and herbs. Juicy and firm-edged; more minerally, tight and backward than the preceding 2014s. Shows a slight medicinal reserve and finishes with dustier tannins than the Clos de Bèze but also good length. This precise, energetic wine will need time in bottle to blossom and gain in complexity.
About the producer
Joseph Drouhin is one of the largest and most famous producers in Burgundy, making both domaine and négociant wines. It remains family-owned and run, now in the hands of the fourth generation.