2011 Quinta do Noval Vintage Port

The 2011 Vintage Port hasn't been seen in a while. It begins our mini-vertical this issue. Showing rich and gorgeous fruit, this is pure, young and elegant. There is still plenty of power here, but decanting a small portion for about three hours gave me some hope that it would be approachable a bit sooner than anticipated. Noval has mid-palate finesse all the time—so, too, here. It makes this very graceful, despite the power and the first lush impression. The pure power does not detract from the feeling of elegance at all, as this comes together well. Dried herbs, eucalyptus and a long finish make this special, the complexity on the finish sealing the deal. This is early in this wine's evolution, but it is beginning to open its eyes and peek out at the world.

The 2011 Vintage Port is a blend of 60& Touriga Nacional, 30% Touriga Francesa and 10% Tinto Cão, all aged for 18 months in wood. It comes in at 101.2 grams per liter of residual sugar. It opens with understatement, but that doesn't last long. Showing pure power on the finish, this otherwise elegant Noval (especially refined in the mid-palate) shows itself to be in fine form as it airs out. Pointed, graceful and a bit drying, this is built for the long haul. It's a Port you need to cellar. It will one day gain complexity, open more fully and become more interesting. That day is not today, although if you air it out long enough, the fine fruit and flavor eventually come through. By the end of the week, this was actually possible to drink, although even then, as it sat in the glass, it became tighter and slightly astringent--showing off its power and intensity. Its firmness and underlying concentration are beautifully matched by the fruit, though. The balance is impeccable. If you have some old school patience, snap this up by the case. It may be accessible younger than I suggest, but this is a Port that should be put away for a couple of decades, or more, for best results.

Deep, saturated ruby. Tight, high-pitched aromas of black fruits, minerals, spices, printer's ink and licorice, complicated by nutty and earthy nuances. Juicy, savory and youthfully imploded; not hugely opulent or sweet but a wine of great density and class, showing a pliant texture and no rough edges. This seemed even more intense after I swallowed it, showing a palate-drenching quality with no weightiness. Doesn't have quite the dimension or floral complexity of the Nacional but a wine of great finesse, and built for decades of life.