2004 San Filippo Brunello di Montalcino Le Lucere

Sadly, the 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Le Lucere has completely fallen apart. Fully oxidized and dried out, with no fruit, the 2004 is well beyond the point of offering any pleasure.

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Le Lucere is a quirky, idiosyncratic wine. High-toned, mentholated aromatics lead to a core of dark fruit in this firm, classically built Brunello. This is a decidedly more structured style than the more forward fruit-driven 2005s. The overt oak and rising bouquet suggest volatile acidity that is at the higher end of the range most tasters are likely to find acceptable. Readers who can look past those imperfections will find a very pretty Brunello to enjoy over the next decade or so, perhaps longer. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Le Lucere is an intense, full-bodied wine packed with ripe, dark fruit. There is plenty of stuffing and depth, but slight elements of greenness detract from what would otherwise be a very fine Brunello. Le Lucere is made from the property's younger Sangiovese plants and aged in a combination of cask and smaller French oak barrels.