1999 Joseph Phelps Insignia

(the first vintage of Insignia made with some Malbec; from a late harvest providing long hang time): Dark red-ruby. Dark nose offers inviting notes of cassis, black cherry, cocoa powder, leather and game; the first of these wines to show a strong floral element. Juicy, gripping and extremely complex, with a beautiful sugar/acid balance contributing to the impression of inner-mouth spine and energy. A wonderfully elegant, European-styled Insignia that conveys outstanding flavor intensity and depth without any impression of weight. Finishes with suave tannins and terrific length. This still-youthful wine should continue to gain in complexity.

The 1999 possesses a healthy deep ruby/purple color along with an open-knit, sweet, candied nose of red and black currants, loamy soil, underbrush and forest floor as well as a touch of oak. This medium-bodied, fresh, lively Insignia exhibits tell-tale acids with much of its tannin already resolved. It is an outstanding Insignia, but not one of the estate's legendary efforts. It should keep for ten more years. I was in the minority thinking the 1999 vintage was good rather than special. The weather consisted of a mild summer, with a serious heat spike in July, and a relatively long hang-time that resulted in grapes with high acids as well as powerful tannins. The latter two issues have always concerned me, making me wonder if the fruit would crack and fade away before the tannins melted. A blend of 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot and the rest Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc (79% from estate vineyards and 21% from growers), 15,000 cases were produced and the alcohol reached 14%.

Lustrous crimson. Young and fresh and vital on the nose. Racy and silky with quite a bit of alcohol on the finish but lots of vitality too. Still very youthful and unresolved. (JR)