2003 Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon Estate

The 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate, a library release from the winery this year, is in great shape. Rich, racy and super-expressive, the 2003 offers up an exotic mélange of ripe dark plum, hard candy, tea leaves, spice, mocha, leather and menthol. Sweet floral top notes add character to the distinctly ripe flavor profile. The tannins have softened, making the 2003 quite enjoyable today. I don’t see the complexity of potential for the extended longevity of the very best years, but I doubt that will matter much to most readers. Harvest started on September 23, normal for the time. This was the first vintage made in an expanded cellar that allowed for the barrels to be arranged on one level, rather than stacked, which Philip Togni believes contributed to greater precision, as the wines were tasted more often during élevage. Today, the 2003 offers considerable pleasure. I expect it will drink well for another decade or so. This is an especially fine bottle.

The 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon is just beginning to enter its early plateau of maturity that will last another 10-15 years. Smoke, tobacco, licorice, incense emerge from the glass, followed by hints of white pepper and orange peel that add intrigue and exoticism. The 2003 is relatively supple and open for a Togni Cabernet, but it also has enough depth to continue to drink nicely for years.

The 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate is a blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot 2% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. For those who don’t know, Togni has always made an uncompromising Cabernet meant for 20, 30, maybe even 40 or more years of cellaring. Gorgeously rich notes of black olives, black currants, graphite and wood smoke jump from the glass of this dense ruby/purple-colored, Medoc-styled 2003. At age ten, it displays a youthfulness similar to a 4- to 5-year-old wine. The finish is long, convincing and rich. It is reminiscent of a Spring Mountain version of a hybrid blend of St.-Julien and Pauillac. Unique to Napa and as distinctive as Philip Togni himself, it will benefit from another 4-5 years of cellaring and should last longer than your author. By the way, my cellar includes many vintages of Togni, and I rarely touch them before they hit 15 years of age. The great Philip Togni, the Ancient Mariner, or should I say mountain goat, has made brilliant Cabernet Sauvignons at Chappellet (try their 1969), Cuvaison (try their 1975) and at his own estate. One of Napa Valley’s most admirable senior citizens, he reminds me of Robert Redford in the fabulous movie, Jeremiah Johnson – not likely to ever come down from the mountain, preferring to look over his grapes and remain in wonderful solitude with one of the great views in Napa Valley. Tel. (707) 963-3731; Fax (707) 963-9186