1998 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru
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Tasting notes
The 1998 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru is a vintage that I have not encountered before. It would have been made by Guillaume d'Angerville's father and the style is very different to nowadays. Very herbal and rustic on the nose, there is a slight metallic veneer here. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, grippy and broad-shouldered with a mulberry and a slight vegetal note on the finish. Not bad, but not really befitting this vineyards. Tasted at the annual Marquis d'Angerville tasting in London.
Critic scores
Jancis Robinson MW
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Interesting rather than sensational, alas. A bottle that was a bit turbid although the colour was a glowing rust red. The nose was suddenly so much older than the 2011 and 2010s served immediately before it that it smelt like a trip down Memory Lane. Rich and mature but with a slight metallic note underneath. Dense with marked acidity. 'Not an easy vintage', as Guillaume d'Angerville recalled. (JR)
Mid shaded ruby. Like the finish of the 1999, there’s a hint of cheesiness on the nose here. Relatively light and evolved and a bit chewy and ungainly on the end. Some dustiness. Not as pure and liquid as most. Rather old-fashioned, with treacly development on the finish. Was this robustly chaptalised? (JR)
Ruby/crimson. Reminds me of the 2004 in its integrated bouquet. Very fresh and well balanced. Very pretty. Great balance. A little simple but very approachable already. (JR)
About the producer
Marquis d'Angerville is synonymous with the village of Volnay, having long made some of the village’s finest wines. Best known for its Premier Cru monopole vineyard, Clos des Ducs, this estate crafts fine-boned, elegant styles of Pinot Noir – wines that act as standard-bearers for the appellation.