2019 Gramercy Cellars L'idiot du Village

Leafy aromas – so much so the wine smells as if it were olive-green, not red. Much more savoury, subtle and Mediterranean in style than the 2017. Iron-rich earthiness threaded with bay leaf, plum cake and pot roast, with a deep blue-black, inky minerality embedded in its spine. Fine-grained tannins cling to the fruit from start to finish. Somehow has both finesse and burly character. (TC)