2007 Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru

Subtle notes of lanolin and toast from the large cask in which it was fermented and aged mark the nose of Brocard’s 2007 Chablis Les Clos, which however also displays elements of citrus oil and flowers. Juicy, spiced yellow cherry and grapefruit mark the bright yet, at the same time, palpably extract-rich and austerely mineral palate; and this finishes with memorable, peppery and zesty pungency, citric cut, and chalkiness. I suspect it will be significantly more refined and expressive in another year and should be worth following for at least half a dozen. Enologist Nadine Gublin (also of Domaine Jacques Prieur) is now heading the team here, although I can’t claim that any change in style was noticeable to me after only one vintage, a vintage that certainly inherently contributed to the less than forthcoming nature of many of these wines, as well as to greater irregularity in quality than those of 2006. I found myself less satisfied with this year’s grand cru bottlings as a group – after being puzzled by how several of the 2006s showed at a comparable stage, too – than I was with those of ostensibly lesser pedigree. A majority of the acreage controlled by Brocard is now being farmed biodynamically, and Julien Brocard suggests he may soon set some sort of record for surface area under such a regimen. Imported by: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

Pale-medium yellow. Cool aromas of lemon, lime and violet. Dense, rich and vibrant but youthfully unforthcoming. This tight, serious wine hints at the refinement of this splendid grand cru but is not yet revealing its personality. All potential today, and a bit aggressive on the back end. This needs time.

Not yet bottled. Fermented and aged in oak foudres. Mineral and delicately fragrant, again with that note of clementine peel that was in the Preuses. Dense with fresh citrus on the mid palate. Long. (JH)