2000 Roberto Voerzio Barolo La Serra

The 2000 Barolo La Serra is just starting to show early hints of tertiary complexity. Sweet herbs, tobacco, licorice and worn-in leather add considerable complexity to a core of powerful dark fruit. The La Serra possesses remarkable depth and nuance, with initial Syrah-like notes that melt into an endless, layered Barolo of exceptional elegance. This is a great La Serra. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2025. Roberto Voerzio’s 2000s are among the most successful wines of the vintage. That’s not terribly surprising given Voerzio’s virtually unparalleled track record of making profound wines that can age, even in the smallest of vintages. The 2000s are only now beginning to approach their early maturity. These remain beautiful, fresh Baroli that will deliver considerable pleasure for years to come.

The 2000 Barolo La Serra, with a bit less color than the Brunate, brings up the intensity level with a more penetrating nose and with flavors with a certain tannic clout. It will take a bit more time to come around, and can be drunk between 2006 and 2017. Importer: Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Medium red. Roasted redcurrant and tobacco on the nose, with a suggestion of dried fruits that reminded me of a Bonneau Chateauneuf du Pape. Then fat, rich and chewy, though not especially sweet in the middle. Liqueur-like redcurrant syrup flavor complicated by minerals, leather and animal fur. Finishes with big, drying tannins. This is Voerzio's highest-altitude cru and a wine that's usually perfumed in the early going, but today this is my least favorite 2000 here. (There will be no La Serra in the hot year of 2003, and in the hail year of 2002, Voerzio didn't even bother to harvest these vines.)