2016 Château Magrez-Fombrauge

One of the most flamboyant wines in the vintage is unquestionably the 2016 Château Magrez Fombrauge, which is based on 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc brought up all in new oak. A beast of a wine with massive dark fruits, chocolate, leafy herbs, chocolate, and even a hint of crushed violets, it hits the palate with a thunderous display of richness and opulence, yet it still manages to stay light, beautifully balanced, and weightless. It’s a thrilling, blockbuster effort, and while I don’t know how it will evolve, I can’t imagine it not continuing to deliver loads of pleasure over the coming two decades or more. In today’s ridiculous obsession with so-called “elegance” and “purity”, I’m thrilled to see wines like this still being made.

Extremely ripe blackberries, without a hint of overripeness, and a gloss of fine vanilla oak, making this an extremely attractive, modern style St.-Emilion that glides over the palate gracefully, ending in a spectacular interplay of fruit and fine-grained tannins. A blend of 60 per cent merlot and 40 per cent cabernet franc. Try in 2022.

The 2016 Magrez-Fombrauge is gorgeous. Espresso, mocha, rose petal, chocolate and spice are all fused together. Sumptuous and racy in the glass, the 2016 boasts superb fruit density, with soft curves to match, and impeccable overall balance. Élevage has done wonders for the 2016, which is now more harmonious than it was when I tasted it several times from barrel. More importantly, it is flat-out delicious.