2019 Costers del Priorat Priorat Blanc de Pissarres

Full bottle 1,367 g. Garnatxa Blanca, Macabeu, Pedro Ximenez. A little aloof, to begin with. Rigid, even, like one of those people who don't like to be hugged. Took it's time to relax into the glass. And then... Tasting 12 other wines at the time, this was the one that I kept coming back to. And when the tasting was over, it was the bottle I didn't give away. White-peach fruit, perfectly ripe. Ground cumin, green cardamom and fennel seed. Spicy through the arced grace of structure. It sounds simple, but this wine has a special something. This kind of wine: it's got this almost unnoticeable beauty, everything so exactly in place and yet with a defiant crack of imperfection that makes it compelling rather than boring; you don't really know why, but you keep lifting it to your lips, and it's because it seems inscrutable, but you  know  there is something there and you're searching for it without realising; you suddenly see with some shock that two of you have nearly finished the bottle, and you're gutted that there isn't more. VGV (TC)