2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard
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Tasting notes
only perfect wine of the vintage, which Thomas Brown calls the “Schrader Schrader,” is the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Schrader Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard, a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from clones 4, 6 and 337. This was aged in 90% Darnajou and 10% Taransaud barrels. It had the second highest alcohol in the vintage at 14.6%. In possession of everything anyone could want in a wine, this profound effort offers up a bouquet of lavender, cedarwood, creme de cassis, blackberry, subtle smoke and incense. It is broad, full-bodied and opulent with ethereal complexity, remarkable concentration and that indescribable gravitas and nobility that world-class prodigious wines possess. It is the most youthful of this quartet and probably won’t be at its best for another 3-4 years, but it should drink well for at least two decades thereafter. What Thomas Brown and the Schraders believe is their best wine goes into the cuvee called Old Sparky. Winemaker Thomas Brown said it was easy to remember 2004 as a “hot and hotter vintage, especially the first 10-12 days of September.” The result was a tiny crop due to the 105-108 degree temperatures. The tiny productions included 100 cases of Old Sparky, 125 cases of RBS, 175 cases of CCS and 250 cases of the three-digit Cabernet Sauvignon Schrader. All these performed spectacularly well in my tastings, including the only perfect wine of the vintage. Tel. (707) 942-1540
Critic scores
Robert Parker
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Good full ruby. Aromas of blackberry, cassis, licorice, violet and tar, with more new oak showing than in the RBS. Then less pliant and open in the mouth, with considerable power to its dark fruit and mineral flavors. Very chewy young cabernet with a strong backbone for aging, and much less fruit-forward than the RBS. The Clone 4 component is responsible for the wine's muscularity, notes winemaker Thomas Brown, while Clone 6 gives the floral high tones.
Good medium ruby. Blackberry, minerals, bitter chocolate and camphor on the nose. Tighter and less obviously ripe than the T6, with a more medicinal character; flavors of dark berries, liquid minerals and creosote. The wine's firm acid spine and serious tannins give it a youthful toughness.
About the producer
Schrader Cellars is one of Napa’s cult names. It focuses on pairing specific clones with the perfect site to produce the ultimate expression of Napa Cabernet. The results regularly receive the very highest scores from critics, with 19 100-point scores from the Wine Advocate to date.