2004 Henri Goutorbe Brut Special Club Grand Cru

(75% pinot noir and 25% chardonnay; aged for over 80 months on its lees and disgorged in January, 2013): Light gold. Deeply pitched aromas of cherry, peach pit, honey and smoky lees, with a hint of toasted nuts coming up with air. Broad, chewy and dry, offering bitter pear skin and dried pit fruit flavors and a touch of orange zest. The smoky note comes back strong on the finish, which clings with excellent persistence.

Goutorbe’s Pinot- and 2007-dominated non-vintage “Cuvee Prestige” tasted alongside was a bit awkwardly earthy, diffuse, and sweet, though still possessed of satisfying mid-palate savor, but his 75-25 Pinot-Chardonnay 2004 Brut Special Club proved highly distinctive and much more focused as well as capable of integrating the exact same level of residual sugar (hmm) into its sweetly perfumed persona. Wisteria and verbena are joined in the nose by a hint of spearmint as well as by intimations of the juicy apple that forms the fruit fundament of an unusually delicate palate, subtly lees-inflected and with a hint of honey in the lingering finish confronting counterpoint from chewy apple skin and pungent zest of orange. The prodigious longevity of the best old-vines Ay bottlings notwithstanding, I can’t help but imagine that this wine will be best enjoyed over the next couple of years. Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

(75% pinot noir and 25% chardonnay, aged on its lees for more than six years; disgorged May, 2012): Light, bright gold. Deeply pitched aromas of pear skin, redcurrant and rhubarb, with musky herbal and floral nuances adding complexity. Sappy, penetrating red berry and orchard fruit flavors show excellent depth, with notes of lemon rind and chalky minerals providing lift. A smoky quality comes up with air and carries through the long, powerful finish. Offers an impressive blend of richness and energy.