2021 Ermitage Le Meal Blanc
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Tasting notes
Le Méal Blanc comes from a two-hectare Marsanne plot of alluvial soil with large pebbles that help retain heat, enabling the grapes to reach high levels of ripeness. The wine has a lovely mix of spice and savoury notes, with more lifted, white-flower, perfumed aromatics and rich, white-chocolate tones. The texture is sublime – creamy, seamless and almost ethereal. The apricot, pear and chamomile notes make for a complex palate. The wine has fantastic balance, the acidity keeping it crisp while texturally remaining so creamy. This is excellent.
Critic scores
Jeb Dunnuck
Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
Kicking off with notes of toasted grain and honeyed citrus, the 2021 Ermitage le Méal Blanc has lots going on, adding exotic stone fruit and pineapple. It's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and ripe, then turns a bit austere on the dry, chalky finish. While it lacks the overall harmony and elegance of the De l'Oree this vintage, it's still pretty compelling stuff.
Largely in the same style, the 2021 Ermitage Le Méal Blanc brings a touch more richness, and it would pass undetected in a lineup of top white Burgundies. Orange blossom, crushed citrus, honeyed flowers, and spicy notes all define the aromatics, and it's medium-bodied, with a fresh, focused mouthfeel and a beautiful finish. As always, this is all Marsanne, yet the percentage of new oak has steadily been reduced, with the 2021 brought up 70% in 25% new demi-muids and the balance in stainless steel. It too will drink well for 10-15 years. This was another fabulous tasting with Michel Chapoutier and his team, and it continues to be one of the highlight tastings I do in a year. The portfolio is massive, so there’s certainly something in here for everyone. Looking at the 2021s, I was able to retaste a handful of the flagship whites, and these appear to have shut down slightly. I wouldn’t touch bottles for another 3-5 years. The reds are leaner and focused, but balanced, and certainly impeccably made. However, the 2022s continue to trend here, starting around 2017 or 2018, toward fresher, lighter wines, both with the reds and whites. In addition, they’re all experimenting with whole cluster fermentations, which works beautifully in the wines I was able to taste.
Showing a little less reduction than the De L'Orée from the same vintage, the 2021 Ermitage Blanc Le Méal hits all the right spots. Hawthorn, honeysuckle, white peach, cedar, yellow apple and lemon peel confer striking complexity. Full-bodied, concentrated and focused, the 2021 really comes alive on the palate, where spot-on balance and lifting freshness culminate in a persistent finale. The 2021 is an Ermitage Blanc of remarkable energy and tension.