2009 Jonata El Desafio de Jonata
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Tasting notes
The 2009 El Desafio de Jonata comes from a warmer vintage for Jonata where harvest occurred during an intense heat spike. The 2009 offers lots of graphite, blackcurrants, leather, and cedar in a gorgeously textured, full-bodied, beautifully balanced package. With terrific purity of fruit, fine, polished, even sweet tannins, and a great finish, this beauty is going to shine for another 10-15 years, if not longer. Based out of Ballard Canyon and run by superstar winemaker Matt Dees (Michel Rolland also consults here), Jonata makes a bevy of brilliant wines from Rhône, Bordeaux, and Burgundian varieties. The El Desafio de Jonata release is the Cabernet Sauvignon-based release, and it normally includes upwards of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon with the balance Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. The elevage is in plenty of new oak, yet I rarely find any noticeable oak in the cuvee. The 2005 is just now entering its prime drink window, and this is unquestionably one of the longest-lived cuvees coming out of Santa Barbara today.
Critic scores
Jeb Dunnuck
Jeff Leve, The Wine Cellar Insider
More reviews and scores
The 2009 El Desafio de Jonata is in its prime, bursting from the glass with a rich bouquet of cigar, chocolate, cassis and pencil shavings that—believe it or not—reminded me strongly of the 1990 Château Léoville Poyferré. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, rich and powerful, its tannins still concealed by a succulent but ripe core of fruit, and finishing with excellent length. While I'd be inclined to attack this in the near-term, it represents a very complete realization of Jonata's aesthetic.
(80% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot, 5% cabernet franc and 5% petit verdot): Inky ruby. Sexy, highly aromatic nose evokes wild berry liqueur, smoke, roasted coffee and candied licorice. Lush, suave and smooth, with broad, palate-staining flavors of blackberry, cassis and floral pastilles. Rich but lively too thanks to juicy acidity, which adds cut and lift to the long, silky finish. Conveys an impression of power but there's real elegance here as well.
About the producer
Jonata is amongst a handful of truly exciting wineries from Santa Ynez Valley near Santa Barbara – a unique fine wine region of incredible versatility.