2017 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett
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Tasting notes
Ripely scented and infectiously juicy pear informs a glossy but buoyant palate, while lacings of mint, cress and lime zest offer a delightful combination of both cooling and invigorating stimulation. Despite 46 grams of residual sugar, the sense of sweetness is quite restrained, which reinforces the impressions of consummate refreshment, tingling animation and transparency to wet stone that are features of the lingering finish.
Critic scores
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
The 2017 Scharzhofberger Kabinett (AP #2) is almost austere on the bright and herbal-mineral, quite coolish and concentrated nose that's somewhat phenolic. Round and lush on the first palate, it offers a concentrated fruit core and crystalline acidity intermingled with slate flavors. This is a pure and filigreed yet tightly woven Kabinett that's only discreetly sweet and has a quite substantial, somewhat drying or astringent finish. Is that cork or just austere? A second bottle from the rare leftovers fetched by Veronika Lindner was clearer and much finer and without irritating astringency.
A little more smoky on the nose compared with the Scharzhof QbA. Again a touch of white mushroom but overwhelmed by pure lemon and apricot purity. Searing Saar freshness and yet perfectly balanced by the fruit. Amazing intensity but no loss of Kabinett playfulness. Incredible length. (JH)
About the producer
Egon Müller is the most famous name in Riesling. The estate produces the world’s most expensive sweet white wines from the Grand Cru Scharzhofberg vineyard in Mosel, Germany.