2005 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru
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Tasting notes
The 2005 Clos de la Roche Cuvée Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is a controversial wine in my experience with a couple of bottles, including one served blind showing Grenache-like traits. Returning to this vintage after four years, I remain unconvinced by the nose. Here, there is a wet clayey aspect and a lack of fruit that you would expect for this feted millésime. The palate is medium-bodied and demonstrates more freshness than the previous bottle. A fine sappiness upholds freshness, and it's pretty linear in style, just lacking dimension and nuance toward the finish. This represents one of the better bottles I've tasted, certainly superior to one shown in London before, yet I would have expected more. Tasted at Ponsot's 150th anniversary vertical at the Domaine.
Critic scores
David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Outclassed by the more complete and elegant 2019, the 2005 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Cuvée Vieilles Vignes offers up discreetly high-toned aromas of sweet red berries, spices, licorice, soil and smoke. Full-bodied, rich and layered, its ripe, sun-kissed core of fruit is framed by the firm, rather assertive tannins that are such a calling card of this vintage. Time may be kind to it; but then again, it may not.
This beauty had not come my way since I first reviewed it from bottle in 2008 and it continues to shine beautifully. There is some secondary development lurking in the background of the wonderfully spicy aromas of both red and dark currant, violet, game and newly turned earth. The dense, powerful and sappy flavors are still blessed with seemingly endless reserves of dry extract while the supporting tannins, while certainly present, are no longer so prominent as to render the strikingly long finish unduly compact or too tightly wound. While this should continue to age effortlessly for years to come, it's not so far away that it couldn't be enjoyed now. A seriously lovely Clos de la Roche. Try from 2025+
About the producer
Domaine Ponsot is one of the most well-known estates in the Côte de Nuits, famed for owning three of the original four hectares of the Clos de la Roche Grand Cru. The legendary domaine also produces another nine Grand Cru cuvées.