1990 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle

From Kate Dugdale's cellar. Dugdale thought this was a more youthful version of 1961 (which we did not taste in this vertical). Deep garnet. Smoky, aromatic and then on the palate more obvious smoked meat and richness. Full, peppery, so deep. Freshness to balance. Firm and very long. Incredibly rich and concentrated but with a fresh bite at the end. (The Wine Society bottling seemed more meaty and chewy.) (JH)

Wonderfully complex sweet fruit initially and then a certain meaty quality before a refreshing dry finish with all the classicism of fine northern Rhône Syrah grown on granite. Still quite structured. (JR)

When Caroline Frey took over in 2006, Jancis Robinson had just published an article called The Rise and Fall of La Chapelle, pointing out the many issues that had befallen this iconic name in the previous decade. Bottle variation may definitely be an issue, but this 1990 - tasted during a recent vertical of the estate at 67 Pall Mall club in London - was glorious, and the wine of the night for me. Silky soft tannins, melted into the structure but still offering a graceful hold to the softly spoken spiced blackberry fruits. Hard to believe but even at 33 years old it takes time to fully open, getting better in the glass.