2007 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou

‘April was gloriously warm and dry, but unfortunately the weather changed to cool and wet conditions in May. June was warm but July was rather cool and August was cool and damp. All in all, the vintage required extreme efforts by our teams to offset the ever-present disease pressure in the vineyards. The vintage was saved by a warm and dry fall that finally allowed the grapes to ripen in favourable conditions.’ Harvest: 24 September – 7 October. 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot. 18 months in new French oak. Mid garnet with brick rim. Cigar box, black olive and sweet tobacco on the nose. Slightly leafy. Surprisingly rich in the mouth, smooth, thickly textured and generous, lots of fruit and plenty of freshness, sweet-sour on the finish. A little bit earthy. The tannins are firm and holding the fruit. Later in the glass it became leaner and drier. (JH)

At 15 years old from a lighter-styled vintage, this Ducru is pretty much at the perfect moment to drink. Edges of tobacco, cigar box, brambled fruit, soft raspberry leaf, gentle spice, turmeric and campfire smoke. The texture remains generous, absolutely ready to invite you in, still with balance and freshness. Harvest September 24 to October 7. Eric and Jacques Boissenot consultant. 80% new oak.

The 2007 Ducru-Beaucaillou, matured in 90% new oak, is a vintage that I have not tasted for several years. It has quite a potent, lavender-scented bouquet, more red than black fruit (raspberry and pomegranate) and touches of iris emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with secondary notes percolating through: seaweed, bay leaf and white pepper. Perhaps the shortcomings of the growing season are reflecting in the finish where it attenuates a little and feels a bit one-dimensional; nevertheless, there is still ample freshness and weight, plus I appreciate the cedar aftertaste. Drink now and over the next 12-15 years.