2012 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou

I loved the 2012 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, a more up-front, supple, approachable, and seamless wine that has plenty of classic Ducru Beaucaillou purity and elegance, with its structure nicely integrated and balanced. Ripe currants, dried tobacco, smoked earth, and chocolaty nuances all give way to a medium to full-bodied, layered, forward Saint-Julien that can be enjoyed any time over the coming two decades, and I have no doubt, given the overall balance here, that it will have a gradual decline thereafter.

' A late budburst and a wet April led to a slow start. Then mixed weather in June resulted in an extended flowering. After a challenging spring, weather from mid July to late September was ideal. August was particularly hot and sunny, and the fine weather continued well into September enabling full ripeness.' Harvest: 3–10 October. 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot. 18 months in new French oak. Deep crimson with garnet rim. Darker and more savoury than the 2011. More oaky. Pure, non-sweet cassis, stony. Lightly but finely structured, with elegance rather than voluptuousness of some vintages. Charming. (JH)

Deep ruby in colour, with a seductive smoky, campfire crackle on the aromatics and plentiful black fruits that are softening to autumnal berries but still so full of expressive liqourice, sage, crayon, eucalyptus and creamy tarte tartin. Balanced, delicious, with supple tannic architecture that is ready to release the fruits. No rush to drink but moving into its drinking window. 100% new oak. Harvest October 3 to 10. Eric Boissenot consultant, Virginie Sallette technical director.