2006 BOND Melbury

Deep red-ruby. Dark cherry, raspberry, plum, licorice and tobacco on the nose. Suave and fine-grained, conveying good weight and depth to its classically dry plum, currant and licorice flavors. Doesn't possess quite the personality or verve of the 2007 but spreads out nicely to saturate the palate on the ripely tannic, long finish.

The 2006 Melbury has a dense plum/purple color and a big, sweet, scorched earth, crème de cassis and blueberry nose, with hints of charcoal, spice box, and graphite. Rich, well-made, and showing exceptionally well from bottle, it is a wine that will certainly evolve for 25 or more years. To reiterate what I have written in the past, Bond is the world-class project of Harlan Estates owner Bill Harlan. It is a simple concept—take 20+-year leases on some of the finest vineyard sites in all of Napa Valley, bring in your own winemaker (the well-known Bob Levy, along with Michel Rolland in the background) and produce these single-vineyard wines, with the stuff considered not good enough culled out and blended together into their second wine, called Matriarch. All of these wines are aged for nearly two years in 100% new French oak and bottled with no fining or filtration. They are all meant for 25 or even possibly 35+ years of aging. There are now five separate vineyards in the Bond portfolio. Quella comes from a 10-acre vineyard in Spring Valley near Howell Mountain, planted on volcanic white ash called tufa. The St. Eden comes from a valley floor vineyard in the Oakville corridor. Melbury is from Pritchard Hill, overlooking Lake Hennessy, Vecina a east-facing hillside neighbor to Harlan Estate, and Pluribus a Spring Mountain vineyard overlooking St. Helena. The 2006s, which seemed tannic and unevolved last year, have put on weight, elegance, and for the most part, showed in the upper point ranges I gave them last year from barrel.

Good deep ruby-red. Vibrant aromas of raspberry, red cherry, mocha and tobacco, enlivened by menthol and a distinctly rocky element. Very ripe but juicy and tightly coiled today, showing terrific energy but less easy sweetness and flesh than the Matriarch. But this is more sharply delineated and long, finishing with subtle suggestions of brown spices, tobacco and licorice. Built for a slow evolution in bottle.