1982 Château Montrose

A wine that has long enjoyed a somewhat mixed reputation, the 1982 Montrose continues to drink very well at age 40; in fact, this tasting note reflects the best bottle I've ever drunk of this vintage. Exhibiting aromas of sweet berry fruit, cedar box and loamy soil, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and fleshy, with lively acids, melted tannins and a soft, subtly leather-inflected finish. While it isn't as concentrated or characterful as the brilliant 1989 or 1990, for example, it's a generous, open-knit wine that's far from being in danger of imminent decline.

The 1982 Montrose served as my introduction to the vintage many moons ago and strangely, after all that time, this is the best bottle that I have encountered. Dark fruit on the nose with candied orange peel, cigar humidor and just a touch of sous-bois , this feels very focused and conveys more intensity than previous bottles. The palate is medium-bodied with plenty of dark red fruit, youthful and structured, maybe a little disjointed towards the finish, which for the first time, does not display any under-ripeness. Very fine. Tasted blind at the "Two" dinner at Domaine de Chevalier.

A soft plum colour, beginning to soften towards tawny and amber around the edge. On the nose tobacco, truffles, beeswax, walnut, saffron, camphor, with a softly spoken blackberry and gentle woodsmoke. Very much in its drinking window, just starting to get strawberry and higher acidity notes on the finish. This is made for a cigar and a book in front of a fire, or for chatting long into the evening with friends. Drink now and over the next five to 10 years, although no doubt it will surprise us for a few decades more. Last tasted July 2018 and it has dropped a little since then, although could be bottle variation. Harvest September 14-29. 100% 1st wine at this point, as Dame de Montrose arrived in 1986.