2006 Château Montrose

A high proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon is reflected in the flavour profile, and this remains a young wine at 15 years old, but like many 2006s lacks a little generosity right now. Plenty of classic St Estephe character that is likely to follow the same ageing pattern as the 2000 - remaining stubborn for another few years, but giving great pleasure when it finally opens up. Blue and black fruits, tobacco leaf, firm tannins, black peppery, juice and slate minerality on the finish. Harvest September 18 to October 3. First year that Jean-Bernard Delmas, ex-Haut-Brion, was in charge (the Bouygues had taken over in January 2006, and he was immediately appointed CEO).

Tasted at the château, the 2006 Montrose has mostly been very inconsistent and frankly disappointing for such a consistent estate. Apart from one bottle, I have been unimpressed, and there could well be a reason, given that it was a "dropped catch" between the change in ownership. It is a blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon and 28% Merlot, picked between 18 September and 3 October. It was the first vintage where green harvesting was conducted all over the estate, and yields were 41 hectoliters per hectare. Frankly, this has long been a disappointing Montrose for me, and this bottle did nothing to alter that view. The nose just lacks fruité and energy, not as green as I have encountered with other bottles but just missing personality and intensity. The palate is medium-bodied and chewy in the mouth. Where is the precision and the tension? It just feels static and, for want of a better word, rather dull on the finish. Sorry, this 2006 has never done it for me. Tasted September 2016.