2001 Andrea Oberto Barolo Vigneto Rocche

The 2001 Barolo Vigneto Rocche needs quite a bit of air to open up. Freshly cut flowers, raspberries, licorice, mint and mocha emerge from this fleshy, beautifully delineated Barolo. The Rocche is bigger and richer than the Albarella, but doesn’t have the sheer vibrancy and harmony of that wine. The aromatics are also slightly more forward while the French oak is a bit noticeable. The 2001 is a rewarding wine to drink now and over the next few years. Overall, this is an excellent showing from Oberto that doesn’t quite hit all of highs. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2014. Various American importers, including: Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500; Vinvino Wine Co., Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 463-7880, Worldwide Cellars, Minneapolis, MN; tel. (612) 378-0316

Oberto's flagship wine, the Barolo Vigneto Rocche presents a dark ruby color and a complex, beautiful nose of spices, menthol, macerated cherries, roasted coffee beans and chocolate. The 2001 Barolo Rocche possesses tremendous thrust and length on the palate, offering dense yet supple flavors of ripe fruit and an exquisite finish. It is a wine of great class and elegance that expresses the pedigree of one of La Morra's very best crus.

Bright, saturated ruby-red. Liqueur-like like red fruits and strong oak on the nose. Big, rich, supple and sweet, with the spicy oak currently dominating the wine's fruit. Perhaps the biggest of these Oberto wines but very oaky and a bit heavyhanded. Finishes with substantial wood tannins and lingering sweetness. The oak is a question mark here, but I may simply have caught this wine at an awkward stage. (Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York NY