2002 Domaione de la Pousse d'Or Volnay 1er Cru Clos des 60 Ouvrees

Medium-deep red with a hint of brown at the rim. Full-blown, sexy aromas of oxidized raspberry jam, black olive tapenade and mocha torrefaction. A point right now, conveying a silky texture, sound acidity and lovely lift to its flavors of plum, red berries and roasted herbs. Finishes plush and sweet, with substantial ripe but suave tannins and superb length. Perfect today owing to its sheer sucrosité but there's no real rush to drink this.

Medium red. Shy but precise aromas of raspberry, strawberry and flowers. Then tight and a bit youthfully bound-up in the mouth, showing less early sweetness and flesh than the Bousse d'Or. But this vineyard, at the edge of Santenots, produces a masculine, minerally style of wine. This calls for at least five years of cellaring.

Beguiling aromas of animal fur, blackberries, dark cherries, and violets can be found in the nose of the 2002 Volnay En Caillerets Clos des 60 Ouvrees. Viscous, deep, and chewy, this muscular wine boasts immense concentration and length. Its thickly textured personality reveals blackberry jam, candied dark cherries, and a myriad spices. Its prolonged finish exhibits exquisitely ripe tannin. Though I’ve been in love with the 1990 for years, this 60 Ouvrees may well surpass it! Anticipated maturity: 2008-2019. Importer: A Peter Vezan Selection, Paris fax #011-33-1-42-55-42-93