2015 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Spatlese Trocken

On the nose, this December 2016 bottling displays even more prominent nutty piquancy than did the corresponding Kabinett. Along with that come scents and flavors of caramelized winter squashes, rutabaga and parsnip that could have been brought here from the land of Grüner Veltliner. The palate feels soft and creamy, but piquancy of hickory nut and pungency of parsnip serve for some tactile counterpoint. The seriously sustained finish is low-toned and earthy in a positive and intriguing way, though the effects of a precipitantly and extremely ripe vintage characterized by heat and drought are evident. I’ve been very conservative in quantitatively handicapping this wine when it comes to bottle evolution. I realize that dry Koehler-Ruprecht Rieslings from very ripe and low-acid vintages have often surprised before with their stamina, but I’m skeptical whether much benefit will be reaped from aging this one for a decade or more. We’re up to 14% alcohol here and that may well in itself be a drag on later development, even though it isn’t yet manifested as heaviness or heat.