2008 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieille Vignes

The 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin is an utterly impeccable, refined wine graced with exquisite layers of intensely perfumed dark red fruit. This sensual, gorgeous Gevrey captures the essence of the vintage in its classy, pedigreed personality. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028. Count me among the Burgundy fans who are thrilled Jean-Marie Fourrier chose not to pursue the career as a commercial airline pilot for which he studied. Fourrier began picking on September 17. The fruit was destemmed. Cuvaison lasted around 14 days but Fourrier commented that he had an unusually high (50%) amount of shot berries, which had the effect of extending the fermentations for another week or so. The malos started and ended early, hence Fourrier decided to bottle early as well. Per his usual practice, Fourrier left the wines on the lees with no racking until the wines were prepared for bottling. On average the wines saw 20% new oak. I tasted all of the 2009s from bottle. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

Palish red. Captivating, expressive aromas of cherry, smoke, mocha and underbrush; slightly exotic in a positive way. Sweet on entry, then sappy in the middle, thanks to firm acidity and a saline quality. Complex, soil-driven wine but not at all dry. "Will these wines shut down like the 1996s or will they be more like the 2001s?" wondered Fourrier, adding that "2008 is like a vintage of the '70s that came to visit us in an age of phenolic maturity."

(from the Brochon side of the village, whereas Echezeaux is on the south side) Good full red. Raspberry, mocha and a hint of stone on the nose. Bigger and sweeter than the Echezeaux, and lower in pitch, with good texture to the flavors of raspberry, smoke and underbrush. Finishes with substantial but fairly sweet tannins.