2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieille Vignes

Fourrier's 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Champs Perrieres (from Brochon) smells strikingly of shitake mushroom, fresh blackberry, and beef stock. Juicy and palate saturating, richer and deeper than the Aux Echezeaux – albeit at the price of more prominent tannins – this finishes with persistent evocations of noble fungus, rich meat stock, and tart but ripe black fruits. It should prove fascinating to follow for at least 6-8 years. Eyebrows as well as stakes in the Burgundy-buying game were raised when the prices of certain Fourrier 2006s came out well above those of 2005. Time will of course tell whether this new positioning "sticks," but there can be no overlooking either the consistently excellent results Jean-Marie Fourrier achieves, nor the extreme paucity and remarkable quality of his two most celebrated bottlings, particularly in this vintage. Jean-Claude Fourrier – with whom I tasted the majority of his son's 2006s – told me that contrary to usual practice here, the stems were removed from all of the fruit this year, because none were really ripe (i.e. truly lignified). (For more about Fourrier's always articulately and thoughtfully expressed methods, consult my report in issue 170.) Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

Good medium red. Smoky red fruits, mocha, smoke and some spicy high tones on the nose. Sweet and silky in texture but with terrific sappiness to its red fruit and mineral flavors. Boasts excellent stuffing and balance. A village wine with atypical finesse, finishing with fine, broad tannins and lingering sweetness.

Full medium red. Pungently floral aromas and flavors of red fruits, spices and minerals. Supple and fruit-driven; not a gamey style of Gevrey. Finishes sweet but firm, with a solid supporting structure. This and the Echezeaux are from the same plant material; both parcels date back to the 1930s. Should make an excellent village wine. Incidentally, Fourrier describes the 2006s in general as more mineral and more floral than the 2005s, which he says were easy to taste from the outset, even before the malolactic fermentations.