2014 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru

Medium red, the lightest of these 2014s. Reticent but highly nuanced nose offers aromas of redcurrant, dark raspberry, milk chocolate, earth and animal fur, plus a riper suggestion of prune (this fruit was picked at 13% potential alcohol). Wonderfully silky and ripe; large-scaled and round for 2014 but not at all heavy. Not as primary as the extraordinary 2015 but the wine's wonderfully refined, thoroughly ripe, late-arriving tannins will require considerable patience.

Lightish cherry. This smells a little riper and more exotic than the Champans but still with pure fresh red fruit and delicate floral aromas and just a hint of spice, even orange. Seductively silky already with tannins that are really fine but draw out the palate to impressive length. Finesse and depth combined here in excellent harmony. (JH)

(this fruit was picked at 13% potential alcohol and chaptalized 0. 3% to prolong the fermentation; the crop level was 30 hectoliters per hectare, as there was practically no hail here, according to Duvivier): Healthy medium red. Brooding, rather wild aromas of black fruits, spices, mint and espresso. Seriously rich, tactile and deep, conveying a strong impression of energy to the dark raspberry, earth and saline mineral flavors. No rough edges here, but the wine's elements still need more élevage to harmonize. Duvivier noted that this premier cru will be bottled last, probably in May. The strongly saline, very long finish leaves the salivary glands humming.