1989 Château Léoville-Las Cases
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Tasting notes
An estate with the natural power and freshness in its soils of Las Cases is always worth looking at in hot vintages like 1989. This is showing fleshy black fruits, spice, cigar box and rich seams of black truffle, fully mature, almost more so than the 1970 if you can believe that. Gentle tannins, mouthwatering, a wine that sits within the finessed personality of St Julien more than many Las Cases. 50% new oak, harvest September 5 to 25. Michel Delon owner, 3rd generation of the family to do so, renowned for his exceptional cellar, and who liked to exchange cases of his own wine with Burgundian winemakers such as Domaine des Comtes Lafon in Meursault. This bottle not showing quite as well as the one I had last year (in fact we opened two bottles to find the best one), but it's worth the gamble if you can track one down.
Critic scores
Wine Spectator
The Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
The 2021 Overthinker is composed of 65% Grenache, 25% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre. It has layered aromas of blackberry, blueberry, orange peel, pipe tobacco and star anise with earthy undertones. The medium-bodied palate has a fragrant core of fruit framed by abundant, chalky tannins, and fireworks of fresh acidity highlight floral perfume that emerges on the long finish. (EB)
This bottle of 1989 Léoville Las Cases is the second encountered within four months and is easily the best showing. It has a beautiful bouquet with a touch of menthol on the nose, leaning towards Pauillac with its vivacious cassis fruit. There's little of the ferrous note from the previous bottle. The palate is medium-bodied and the most youthful I have encountered. It's pure with supple black and blueberry fruit and fine tannins. It fans out wonderfully. As I have said, over a dozen bottles through the years, and this is a frustrating Las Cases to pin down. But when it's on, it's on. Tasted at the 1989 dinner at Piccolino in London.
I thought the 1989 Château Leoville Las Cases showed brilliantly, with a classy, elegant, regal feel that's very much in the style of the estate. Certainly in its prime drink window, it has lots of pure cassis and darker fruits as well as graphite, scorched earth, tobacco, and hints of saddle leather. Medium-bodied on the palate, it's balanced, has a pure, layered mouthfeel, resolved tannins, and outstanding length. While it doesn't hit the same heights as the 1982, 2000, 2003, 2009, or more recent vintages, it's a classic example of this terroir that will continue to evolve gracefully for another two decades.
About the producer
One of the leading estates in Bordeaux, Ch. Léoville Las Cases is one of the largest and oldest Classed Growths in the Médoc. Along with Ch. Ducru-Beaucaillou, it is widely considered one of the best estates in Saint-Julien.