2020 Robert Weil Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
Can a wine exist on tension alone? If its name is Gräfenberg, then apparently yes. This GG occupies the rare air between the poles of fruit and texture. Crisp white pears, young apricot, lemon peel and a delicate white, nearly almond-blossom floral character. Grip, concentration, power, pedigree. So. Much. Pedigree. Yet despite the obvious power, a blinding clarity carries the wine from intense first to final sip. The renowned site has in 2020 forsaken the sinew and muscle of many vintages for a sleeker, stonier and saltier grip, a nearly burgundian noblesse. Exceptional balance and presence, even in its youth. Hard to find something to criticise, other than that it was opened far too soon. (PS)
Critic scores
Jancis Robinson MW
Jancis Robinson MW
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The 2020 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Trocken GG is deep, pure, refined and slowly opening up after five years in the bottle. There are lemony and herbal notes on the nose intermingled with a certain salinity and still some sur lie notes. Full-bodied and complex on the palate, this is a very elegant and juicy yet also pure, tensioned and enormously saline Gräfenberg with a long, uplifting, mineral finish. This is an excellent performance from a fabulous wine! Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in Kiedrich, August 2025.
A generous fragrance does not only feature ripe yellow fruit but also reveals that the Gräfenberg has been kissed by wood. Quite broad and creamy on the palate, no doubt because the wine spent a prolonged time on its lees, but spontaneous herbal notes bring freshness and a phenolic kick-back structure to the finish. Considerable extract promises long-term potential. (MS)