2004 Balnaves of Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon The Tally Reserve

Donated by Pete Bissell, Blanaves' winemaker. 2004 was a waypoint in Coonawarra's history. Many good wines made. Developments in precision viticulture: each block managed according to soil profile, clonal selection and trellis system. The Tally is produced from the best parcels of the 120-acre vineyard, and not produced every year. The vines are mostly machine pruned and harvested. Fermented in vinimatics and open-topped static fermenters. Maturation 18-22 months in fine-grained new and used French oak barriques and hogsheads. Before swirling it has a peppery and yeast extract note, though the fruit starts to emerge with aeration. Much more intense and crisp cassis on the palate. Dense but fine tannins, pretty fresh acidity and a tight, dry leafy finish. Powerful and tightly furled, hence the plus. (JH)