2003 JC Cellars Zinfandel Arrowhead Mountain Vineyard

(15% alcohol) Bright ruby-red. Complex, rather syrah-like aromas of violet, black pepper, bitter chocolate and smoked meat. Dry but rich, with strong fruit extract framed and lifted by a peppery element. Higher-pitched and more fruity than the Iron Hill bottling, with an intriguing saline element. Very fresh, firmly built zinfandel with personality. (A second bottle was a bit more aggressively peppery, and finished with a tarry nuance; I scored this sample 87.) Also tasted: 2003 Syrah Rockpile Vineyard Haley's Reserve.

The 2003 Zinfandel Arrowhead Vineyard (146 cases) is from a site planted on a steep slope in volcanic rock (Copain produces an amazing Zin from this vineyard). It boasts a dark ruby/purple color, big, sweet raspberry and cherry fruit notes, and a heady, spicy finish. Although not complex, it is a classic Jeff Cohen creation - full, flavorful, interesting, and provocative. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. Tel. (510) 749-9463; Fax (510) 864-0897