2004 San Filippo Brunello di Montalcino Le Lucere Riserva

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Le Lucère is a quirky, idiosyncratic wine. High-toned, mentholated aromatics lead to a core of dark fruit in this firm, classically built Brunello. This is a decidedly more structured style than the more forward fruit-driven 2005s. The overt French oak and rising bouquet suggest volatile acidity that is at the higher end of the range most tasters are likely to find acceptable. Readers who can look past those imperfections will find a very pretty Brunello to enjoy over the next decade or so perhaps longer.