1996 Château Belair-Marquis D'Aligre

The 1996 Bel Air Marquis d'Aligre is beginning to drink beautifully, unwinding in the glass with aromas of plums and cassis mingled with fresh tobacco, subtle spices and sweet soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and enveloping, with superb purity of fruit, fine concentration and melting tannins, it is entering what it sure to be a broad plateau of maturity.

The 2005 Bel-Air Marquis d’Aligre has a strict, backward, tobacco and graphite-tinged bouquet with more black fruit than red, unlike the 2001. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, harmonious and crisp with a fine thread of acidity. There is a gentle build in the mouth, quite linear but delivering a very nuanced, lightly spiced, clove-infused finish. This Margaux is endowed with impressive density compared to other vintages tasted, the fruit veering towards black plums and a hint of balsamic. I admire the transparency of the wine, one that makes you feel as if you are peering directly into the vineyard. Tasted at the Bel-Air Marquis d’Aligre dinner. (NM)

Pale strawberry colour. Really rather rich and gamey on the nose with great life and almost Nebbiolo-like allure. The opposite of modern red bordeaux but very attractive and sweet. Extremely distinctive. No new wood and released only when judged ready to drink. Most unusual! (JR)