NV Arrels del Priorat (Vi de mares de 30 anys)

The NV Arrels has a base of rancio wines from Masia Barril, one of the historical wineries in Priorat, averaging over 30 years of age. It displays a clean, dark amber color and plenty of aromas of candied orange peel, figs, marzipan, wax, pollen and hazelnuts with a citric acidity that makes it very drinkable. It’s elegant and intense, warm, fresh, and sharp ending quite dry, saline even – reminiscent of a Palo Cortado or Amontillado. This is really focused and precise, intense and balanced, truly exceptional. Dessert wines are often underpriced, and this is not an exception. Given its quality, I think these would work better as an aperitif or with cured hard cheeses or nuts. 650 half-liter bottles were filled in 2001. Arrels del Priorat means ‘roots of Priorat’ in the Catalan language, and it’s the name chosen by Rene Barbier from Clos Mogador to sell his highly restricted releases of traditional, old rancio wines from Priorat. After a few years in the region, he became worried that the traditional rancio wines might disappear if nobody paid attention to them. Only the older generation appreciated them and these were getting smaller and smaller in number. So he decided to buy all he could and become the guardian of tradition. He offers these wines in homeopathic quantities. They are sold in 50 cl. bottles, and he might release a bunch of them from time to time to keep the average old-age of the wine. According to Barbier, he was told these wines never really stopped slowly fermenting and were not fortified, the alcohol level was achieved naturally through evaporation and it’s quite high. The older the higher. They are mostly dry, but some have a little residual sugar. Drinking dates are almost a joke with wines like these, as they should last forever. Even though they might not be easy to find, I felt I should include them in the report as they are truly exceptional, unique wines. I hope my comments bring attention to these exceptional wines. No known American importer, so prices are estimated.