2017 Schloss Lieser Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett
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Tasting notes
A cheesy fermentative residue somewhat clouds the nose, but from behind that emerge scents of fresh apple and sea breeze, anticipating the salinity, juiciness and crispness that dominate on a (for a Wehlener) surprisingly firm, lean palate. A garlanding of heliotrope and honeysuckle also runs through this entire performance, which culminates in bright, mouthwatering length. To an especially remarkable extent – though this is basically true of all the vintage 2017 Schloss Lieser Kabinetts – high residual sugar is successfully balanced out by efficacious acidity and extract. This will almost certainly be even finer in the future.
Critic scores
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Tamlyn Currin, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
The 2017 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett is flinty and stony on the openhearted but serious and not overly fruity nose that reveals a fine mineral base. Lush and generous but fine and elegant on the mouth-filling palate, this is a well-structured, salty-mineral, piquant and complex Wehlener Sonnenuhr from younger vines. The finish is long and complex. This is an excellent sweet Kabinett with mouth-filling, lush fruit as well as finesse and elegant salinity. Tasted in March 2019.
Residual sugar around 55 g/l. More gunflint and struck match on the nose than the Helden Kabinett (sample slightly colder, which may have had an impact). But very rounded and almost plump on the palate, oranges and nectarines and so very juicy. Real rub of texture, like a silk tapestry, silvery threads of acidity running long and firm, then becoming apple-pie spicy on the end. Irresistible! GV (TC)
A little more spicy than the estate wine, more mineral. But also creamy and a little more weight on the palate with green apple and tart lemon. Stunning balance and remarakable length at this price. GV (JH)