1999 Domaine Michel & Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie

Colour mid crimson with some evolution at the rim. Very light, but true, nose. Lots of acidity on the front palate and a bit of brett. Very dry finish. Shame because the basic building blocks of fine fruit are here. (JR)

The finest Cote Roties Ogier has made (and he agrees) are the 1999s. The fabulous, opaque purple-colored 1999 Cote Rotie, which spent two years in wood (30% new), reveals a glorious bouquet of bacon fat, creme de cassis, licorice, violets, and spice box. It is full-bodied, with sweet tannin, great presence in the mouth, and a knock-out finish. Although it will be approachable in its youth, 3-4 more years of cellaring will be beneficial. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2018. Michel Ogier and his son, Stephane, are producing spectacular wines. The only problem is that production is small. As I indicated last year, Ogier's 1999s are magical. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

The finest Cote Roties Ogier has made (and he agrees) are the 1999s. The fabulous, opaque purple-colored 1999 Cote Rotie, which spent two years in wood (30% new), reveals a glorious bouquet of bacon fat, creme de cassis, licorice, violets, and spice box. It is full-bodied, with sweet tannin, great presence in the mouth, and a knock-out finish. Although it will be approachable in its youth, 3-4 more years of cellaring will be beneficial. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2018. Michel Ogier and his son, Stephane, are producing spectacular wines. The only problem is that production is small. As I indicated last year, Ogier's 1999s are magical. Apr 2002, www.robertparker.com