2017 Maison Pierre Brisset Vosne-Romanée Les Rouges du Dessus 1er Cru

Chocolatey cherries on the nose – quite delicious, and more forward than in previous vintages – but it steps back into to its customary restraint on the palate, as if apologising for an unseemly show of emotions. Broad red-silk flag across the mouth, spiky cumin and caraway spice, elegantly honed tannins arching high over the fruit. (TC)