2012 Domaine Gabriel Tortochot Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
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Neal Martin
Allen Meadows, Burghound
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The 2012 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru comes from 41-year-old vines. It has an attractive, open-knit bouquet that veers toward a more terroir-driven profile than a more typical fruit-driven one: tart cherries rapidly given way to woodland, autumnal scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and poise. While it does not quite possess the persistency of the Mazis-Chambertin, it is nicely focused and poised. If seeking a more understated Charmes-Chambertin and you are unable to forage one from Denis Bachelet (join the club), then do consider this as an alternative. Drink 2015-2025+ I recall tasting the wines from Domaine Tortochot several years ago. To be honest, they were satisfactory rather than scintillating, workmanlike wines without flair of flamboyance. Meeting Chantal Tortochot and reacquainting myself with their 2012s in London, I was pleased to discover a significant improvement and that is a valuable thing because we need more affordable wines from Gevrey beyond Rousseau and Dugat-Py (which is to take nothing away from those growers.) Part of the reason is the transition to organic viticulture since 2003 and achieving complete conversion in 2008. In addition the talented Sylvain Pataille has been on board in a consulting capacity and that has resulted in more complexity and nuance. The tenets here are straightforward: the fruit completely de-stemmed, twice-daily punch downs and a decent amount of new oak, 100% for the grand cru, 50% for the premier and 25% for the village crus. Domaine Tortochot is one to put back on your list and I look forward to keeping track of their progress in future issues. Importer: PComms International Wine Imorters, tel: 828-274-9323. www.pcommswines.com & several in the UK such as OW Loeb and Fine & Rare Wines.
The 2012 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru comes from 41-year-old vines. It has an attractive, open-knit bouquet that veers toward a more terroir-driven profile than a more typical fruit-driven one: tart cherries rapidly given way to woodland, autumnal scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and poise. While it does not quite possess the persistency of the Mazis-Chambertin, it is nicely focused and poised. If seeking a more understated Charmes-Chambertin and you are unable to forage one from Denis Bachelet (join the club), then do consider this as an alternative. Drink 2015-2025+ Feb 2014, www.robertparker.com
About the producer
Situated in the village of Gevrey-Chambertin, Domaine Tortochot may not carry the cachet of the very top domaines in the village, but it does offer some of the best value, producing wines with great terroir transparency in their top Premiers and Grands Crus, and fabulous village wines.