2009 Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino

Compelling nose of dark spice and dark earthy fruit. Lovely concentrated fruit with a very niche balance between chewy tannins and acidity. A little charred on the finish and ready now. (WS)

Dark red cherries, game, spices, chocolate, licorice and smoke meld together in the 2009 Brunello di Montalcino. A big, burly Brunello, the 2009 is already quite evolved in its aromas and flavors, so it needs to be enjoyed over the next few years. The short, abrupt finish is worrisome. The 2009 spent 35-36 months in oak, in my view too long in this vintage. Production is down sharply to around 18,000 bottles from around 25,000 in a more normal year such as 2007.

The 2009 Brunello di Montalcino is a fleshy and meaty wine that carries its weight and concentration with grace. The wine oozes personality with a long succession of fruit, herbal and dark spice sensations that leave a lasting impression. Fruit is harvested from the Castelnuovo dell’Abate area and is aged in oak for 36 months. Drink: 2016-2025. As I have said elsewhere in this report, Andrea Cortonesi is one of my favorite Brunello producers. He is also one of the first estates I visited years ago as a young wine writer and it has been a privilege to watch his career take off in such spectacular fashion. I remember his small basement winery on that first visit and every time I go by his property today, I am surprised and encouraged by signs of recent construction and expansion. If anyone embodies the amazing growth of Brunello di Montalcino that person is Andrea. Importers: Marc De Grazia Imports, www.marcdegrazia.com