2014 Tenuta Sette Ponti Oreno

Blackcurrant and plum, with high acid and grainy tannin – could easily be Bordeaux. Authentic bite from the tannin, and light body makes this structured but not at all difficult to drink – though it is very much a wine intended for food. (RH)

The 2014 Oreno is an intense wine with tremendous depth and pure power. Smoke, tobacco, menthol and earthiness add nuance throughout, but it is the wine's explosive energy that stands out most today. The incisive tannins need time to soften, but if they do, the 2014 might merit an even more positive note.

A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, the 2014 Oreno pours from this heavy glass bottle with a beautifully saturated color and dense consistency. You know this is an important wine just by looking at it. The bouquet reveals compelling aromas of dark fruit, Indian spice, pressed rose, leather and tobacco. The delivery is seamless and intense. Only in the mouth does this wine show some of the shortcomings of the cooler 2014 vintage. Compared to past editions, this wine is slightly shorter in terms of persistence and there is a point of leanness on the mid-palate. That said, it should continue its evolution over the next decade. May 2017, www.robertparker.com