2014 Du MOL Pinot Noir Finn

From a vintage compared to 2005 by Smith, who also described 2014 as one of the best for the region ever for Pinot Noir, the 2014 Pinot Noir Finn shows the balance, elegance, and length that defines the vintage. Black currants, smoked herbs, mulberries, and exotic spice notes all emerge from this medium to full-bodied 2014 that still has some youthful tannins and exuberant fruit. I love its balance and accessibility, yet I suspect it will keep for over a decade. I still remember tasting with Andy Smith while I was writing The Rhône Report and I was thrilled to be able to sit down and go through all of his wines on this occasion. Stylistically, Smith makes a fresh, vibrant style of wine, yet I never find them lacking for depth and or texture. Looking at the Chardonnays, these are made in a reductive, age-worthy style and the clear majority have distinctly Burgundian profiles. These are beautiful wines that, at least to my palate, surpass the quality of the Pinot Noirs, which are slightly more variable. Nevertheless, the top Pinot Noirs are certainly up with the crème de la crème of the region. While Andy favors a tight, age-worthy style of Chardonnay, the Pinot Noirs are made in a slightly more forward style. In addition to the Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, DuMOL also produces a handful of world-class Syrahs, as well as one of the top examples of Viognier coming out of California. Both the 2015s and 2016s reviewed here are terrific wines, with the 2016s showing slightly more balance and elegance, but you can’t go wrong with either vintage here.