2006 Domaine de Montille Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts Christiane 1er Cru

As described in detail in issue 171 de Montille's 2006 Vosne-Romanee Les Malconsorts – Christianne comes from a share of that cru which is clearly visible on vineyard maps as if it had been cut-out from (or juts into) today's La Tache. With a more exotic, musky, and effusive floral perfume; similar plum and raspberry fruit and smokiness; and more palate-staining concentration than the corresponding "regular" Malconsorts, this also carries more structure and a more vivid if hard to pin down mineral dimension. The finish here is positively tidal in its expansiveness and relentlessness. Where the other bottling has more 2006-tyical virtues, this "Christianne" could easily be taken for a 2005. It will never give chase to its own 2005 counterpart, but it should prove immensely rewarding to follow for 12-15 years. Domaine de Montille – for more about whose generational change and impressive recent expansion consult my report in issue 171 – has now completed the renovation of old cellars in Meursault that house in addition to the estate's wines those of Deux Montilles, the white wine negociant project of siblings Etienne and Alix de Montille (for a report on which, see my issue 186 coverage of 2007 vintage white Burgundies). The de Montilles began picking in Volnay on September 25, followed by harvest of Pommard, Corton, and then Beaune. "The sugar levels were around 13% potential alcohol and they kept going up," reports Etienne de Montille, "but I didn't taste that much difference in the ripeness of the fruit." Meanwhile, rot was threatening, and diligent triage as well as gentle, watchful vinification followed. But de Montille – who sees the vintage as combining aspects of 2000 and 2002 – persisted in his recent fidelity to whole-clusters and stem inclusion, with the top cuvees hovering around 50% vendange entier. Incidentally, de Montille had the estate's new cellars scrupulously searched and tested for signs of TCA; has installed a system for removing chlorine from the water used there; and (in a move that will affect an even larger portion of the production at Chateau de Puligny, which he directs) will be employing DIAM composite corks for the bottling of several (relatively) less-expensive wines, starting with vintage 2008. Various importers, including Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 559 1040; also, a Thomas Calder Selection, Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29

Good full medium red. Aromas of raspberry, minerals and Oriental spices. A step up in intensity over the foregoing 2006s; in fact, this is a real spice bazaar on the palate, with lovely sweetness and penetrating perfume intensified by very firm but harmonious acidity. Plenty of lurking stony minerality underneath. Finishes quite suave, with a solid spine of tannins and acids and captivating lingering perfume.

Bright red. Musky aromas of flint and exotic spices. Sweeter and denser in the mouth than the "regular" Malconsorts, and with considerably more volume too. This fills the mouth with flavors of raspberry, mocha and crushed stone. A huge wine in the context of the year. But also finishes with impressive thrust.