2005 Elio Altare Barolo Brunate

Good medium red. Less fruity and more closed than the Arborina, hinting at menthol and brown spices. Medicinal and tight, not showing the classic early sweetness of the cru but displaying plenty of tannic spine for aging. In comparison to this young wine, Altare's stunning 2004 Brunate was distinctly pinot-like in its silky texture and high-pitched red fruits and spices.

The 2005 Barolo Brunate is intense and pure, with the transparency and sheer pedigree of a grand cru Burgundy. Intense layers of dark cherries, tar, menthol and spices are all intricately woven in a fabric of gorgeous complexity. The wine's fruit carries through all the way to the long finish, balancing the tannins with notable grace. The Brunate is richer and more vibrant than the Arborina, and the flavor profile tends towards the darker end of the spectrum. Simply put, this is classic Brunate.

The 2005 Barolo Brunate is intense and pure, with the transparency and sheer pedigree of a grand cru Burgundy. Intense layers of dark cherries, tar, menthol and spices are all intricately woven in a fabric of gorgeous complexity. The wine’s fruit carries through all the way to the long finish, balancing the tannins with notable grace. The Brunate is richer and more vibrant than the Arborina, and the flavor profile tends towards the darker end of the spectrum. Simply put, this is classic Brunate. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. It is always fascinating to spend some time with Elio Altare. My most recent visit was no exception, as we tasted through every vintage of his Barbera Larigi from 1985 to 2008. When Altare began radically shortening fermentation times and using French oak in the mid-1980s, one of the oft-heard criticisms of the wines is that they wouldn’t age, a hypothesis that has soundly proven to be false. Our tasting ended with the 1994 Langhe Arborina, a wine from a modest vintage that saw a mere 40 hours of contact with the skins, and that is still gorgeous, fresh, and intact. I will be posting notes on the Larigi vertical on my site within www.erobertparker.com. In the meantime, readers will find much to admire in these beautiful 2005 Barolos, which are among the highlights of the vintage. Unfortunately the 2006 harvest was much less kind, so fans of Altare’s wines will want to consider these 2005 Barolos carefully. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411