2017 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Les Greffieux

More blackcurrants, black olives, garrigue, and smoke game notes emerge from the 2017 Ermitage Les Greffieux, one of the more opulent, seductive and sexy Hermitage in the lineup. Full-bodied, powerful, and structured, it has a smoking good mid-palate, beautiful tannins, and a great finish. There are just 350 cases produced, but it’s a stunning Hermitage to drink over the coming 25-30 years. This was another stunning tasting with the team at Chapoutier. They’ve produced some of the wines of the vintage in both 2017 and 2018. The team here compares 2017 to 2007, which is a comparison I understand, even if I think the quality of their 2017s are a step up. Both vintages were hot and dry, and the wines have expressive, sunny profiles. I reviewed their top 2017 dry whites last year, but the 2017 reds showed spectacularly well this year, most coming in at the upper end of their barrel range. Looking at the 2018s, this is another blockbuster year at this estate and the wines reveal even deeper purple (almost blue) hues compared their 2017 counterparts as well as a touch more freshness in their aromatics reminiscent of a cooler vintage. Nevertheless, these are big, rich, concentrated wines that have building tannins and structure as well as loads of fruit, and are built for the cellar. One of the beauties of the 2018s is that the wines have a wonderful sense of freshness and purity reminiscent of a cooler year, yet paired with the fruit, depth, and richness of a warmer year. Lastly, the lineup here seems to grow each year and at present, includes two sparkling wines, three Saint-Péray, two Condrieu, two Cornas, four Côte Rôtie, six Crozes Hermitage, nine Hermitage, and six Saint Joseph. Also, there are a handful of Vin de France and IGP releases. The top “Sélections Parcellaires” cuvées range from 300 to 1,000 cases, and while they can be frightfully expensive, they’re among the greatest wines in the world. However, don’t overlook the value releases from Chapoutier, where you get serious bang for the buck.

The 2017 Ermitage les Greffieux features swirling complexity on the nose and palate, with divergent yet harmonious notes of mocha, raspberries, damp humus, roasted meat and salted licorice. It's full-bodied but reasonably plush and approachable for Hermitage, showing a more seductive face of this great vineyard.

A super dark-fruited Hermitage with dark stones, iodine and black cherries, laced with rich, toasted spices and roasted meat. The palate has a firmish core of rich tannin and carries ripe dark plums and blackberries in assertive, ripe and rich style. Drink or hold.