2018 Ceritas Chardonnay TG36 Trout Gulch
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Tasting notes
Only 800 bottles of the 2018 Chardonnay Trout Gulch were produced, and the fruit was picked at a mere 19 brix from the rockiest section of the vineyard. It is expressive aromatically of lemon custard, toasted brioche, and ripe green apple. The palate is high toned and tightly wound, with a persistent mineral texture of crushed rock and saline minerality as well as notes of fresh lemon, baking spice, and vanilla bean. Drink over the next 15 or more years. Helmed by founder John Raytek, Ceritas was established with their first vintage in 2005. Today there are 14 wines produced – Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon – featuring historical sites that are dry farmed and poised to channel the style the team wants to create. Each of the sites are farmed organically, or biodynamically. Originally focusing solely on what is now the West Sonoma Coast, in 2011 they expanded their reach to the Santa Cruz Mountains, and most recently to Moon Mountain and Napa. In 2015, they moved into a new barrel room in Healdsburg, where they operate from today. Having had no investors or partners in the project, it allowed John and his team the freedom to experiment and to only bottle wines they wished to produce. From a winemaking perspective, they strive for minimal intervention in the cellar. Their oak selections are sourced from two coopers and utilize a light toast, from selections with a tight grain. The wines express a pure, focused style that will appeal to those who seek tension and precision.
Critic scores
Jancis Robinson MW
Jeb Dunnuck
More reviews and scores
The 2018 Chardonnay Trout Gulch TG 36 is a new wine from Ceritas. It emerges from the coldest part of the ranch, which in this vintage was picked at the end of October. Quite unusually, the 2018 saw 18 months in thick-staved, 300L barrels followed by another 18 months in tank, which is a good 6-12 months more in steel than other wines made in this general style, with only two rackings and sulfur additions before bottling. Airy and perfumed in its first impression, the 2018 gains notable volume with aeration as the more savory, mineral and phenolic nuances of Trout Gulch gradually open. Mint, jasmine, orchard fruit, sage, chamomile, yellow flowers and earthy undertones all come alive in the glass. This striking, utterly captivating Chardonnay is one of the most compelling Ceritas wines I have tasted in a long time.
Pale gold. Wonderfully mineral aromas of citrus pith and petrichor. Positively crystalline flavours of lemon juice, lemon pith, white flowers and grapefruit juice have a quartz-like minerality to them. Fantastic acidity and a hint of salinity keep the mouth watering for minutes. A stupendous example of what Californian Chardonnay does at its best. (AY)
The 2018 Chardonnay Trout Gulch Vineyard is clean and bright on the nose with aromas of crushed shell, white blossoms, hay and Bosc pear. The light-bodied palate follows in the same style, with crisp, mineral-driven character and a long, delicate but energetic finish. This is wound very tight and will require plenty more time in bottle.
About the producer
Created in 2005 by John Raytek, Ceritas is one of California’s most exciting producers. The project is focused on making single-site wines from Northern California’s coastal regions, largely Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.