2005 Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos des Argillieres 1er Cru

From a choice section of 65-year-old vines above Premeaux Prissey acquired through his in-laws, Dureuil’s 2005 Nuits-St.-Georges Clos des Argilieres displays aromas raw of raw beef liver that approaches Cornas-like intensity and vivid bloodiness, along with intensely ripe black cherry, wood smoke, and distinctly wet stone minerality. A similar fruit-animal-mineral trio – augmented by pungent brown spices – dominates this wine’s intensely rich and sappy but firmly structured, dense palate, and these flavors cling with memorable tenacity. Lock this away for 7-10 years. Come to think of it, at this end of Dureil’s list, too, you get excellent value. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne Les Chaliots ($24.00; 86). A Peter Vezan Selection, Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93. Various importers, notably North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (800) 266 6585.

From a choice section of 65-year-old vines above Premeaux Prissey acquired through his in-laws, Dureuil’s 2005 Nuits-St.-Georges Clos des Argilieres displays aromas raw of raw beef liver that approaches Cornas-like intensity and vivid bloodiness, along with intensely ripe black cherry, wood smoke, and distinctly wet stone minerality. A similar fruit-animal-mineral trio – augmented by pungent brown spices – dominates this wine’s intensely rich and sappy but firmly structured, dense palate, and these flavors cling with memorable tenacity. Lock this away for 7-10 years. Come to think of it, at this end of Dureil’s list, too, you get excellent value.||Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne Les Chaliots ($24.00; 86).||A Peter Vezan Selection, Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93. Various importers, notably North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (800) 266 6585. Wine Advocate.April, 2007