2014 M. Chapoutier Saint-Joseph Les Granits Blanc

Pale gold. Pungent lemon zest, quince and peach scents show very good clarity and mineral lift. Taut and nervy on the palate, offering concentrated citrus and orchard fruit flavors that spread out steadily and pick up a honeysuckle nuance with aeration. Closes smooth and sappy, delivering building minerality and impressive length.

Limpid gold. A wild, intensely perfumed bouquet evokes fresh orchard and pit fruits, orange zest and iodine, complemented by a chalky mineral overtone and a hint of jasmine. Sappy, incisive and pure on the palate, offering concentrated pear and nectarine flavors underscored by a smoky quality. Shows outstanding energy and focus on the finish, which lingers with serious, minerally tenacity. (Incidentally, the 2005, which I drank in early March, was wonderful, offering excellent depth and ripe pit fruit, honey and toasted nut qualities.)

The white of the vintage in Saint Joseph is the 2014 Saint Joseph les Granits Blanc. Coming all from one of the top terroirs in the region, the granite soils of the lieu-dit Saint Joseph, this 100% Marsanne release boasts terrific aromas and flavors of buttered citrus, poached pears, honeysuckle, spice and caramelized pineapple. Full-bodied, rich, concentrated and textured, yet also elegant and silky, it should be a must buy by anyone who loves northern Rhône whites. It will have 10-15 years of prime drinking.